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2600: All Saints,
Rome |
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Mystery
Worshipper: St Edward the Confessor.
The church: All
Saints, Rome.
Denomination:
Church
of England, Diocese
in Europe.
The building: An
English Neo-Gothic church, very much in contrast with the extravagance
of baroque Rome, built on the ruins of a former convent. It
was the last commission of George Edmund Street, who designed
the Royal Courts of Justice in London and a great number of
churches. Construction started in 1880 and the church was completed
in 1887. The spire was completed exactly 50 years later, in
1937. The stained glass windows are very Anglican and rather
fine.
The church: The
congregation is made up mostly of English ex-pats, but there
are also some Americans and Canadians.
The neighbourhood:
The church is located in Via del Babuino, between the Spanish
Steps and Piazza del Popolo. Audrey Hepburn's house in the movie
Roman Holidays is across the street and this used to
be the English neighbourhood in Rome. The Keats-Shelley Memorial
House and the oldest English tea house in Rome are close to
the church, apparently because this is supposed to be the neighbourhood
with the best running water in the city.
The cast: The
Revd Dana English, assistant curate, and the Ven. Jonathan Boardman,
chaplain of the parish and archdeacon of Italy and Malta.
The date & time: Sunday,
8 September 2013, 10.30am.
What was the name of the
service?
Choral Eucharist.
How full was the building?
It was about a third full, with about 50 people present. Many
regulars were still on holiday, but there were plenty of visitors.
Did anyone welcome you
personally?
Two ladies handed me the hymnal with the service leaflets and
said "Good morning. Welcome."
Was your pew comfortable?
It was a chair, like in many English country parish churches
the ones with the upholstered cushions. It was quite
comfortable.
How would you describe
the pre-service atmosphere?
Very quiet. There was some chatting in the back, which neither
distracted the ushers from their jobs nor those who were praying.
As the organist began the Bach prelude, the church fell silent.
What were the exact opening
words of the service?
"In the Name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the
Holy Ghost."
What books did the congregation
use during the service?
Extracts from Common Worship and the New English
Hymnal.
What musical instruments
were played?
A great English organ of the firm Conacher & Company of
Huddersfield, Yorkshire, England.
Did anything distract
you?
A couple of children were quite lively and the Italian lady
in front of me arrived quite late during the sermon!
But these kinds of things happen in every church.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip,
happy clappy, or what?
High church at its best. Not to be confused with Anglo-Catholicism,
this was proper English high church. The vestments and the frontal
were really stunning, and I would guess (given the place and
the familiar patterns) were by the London firm Watts & Co. The
music was superb as well; it couldn't have been more Anglican
than it was, from the Anglican chant to the hymns, from the
prelude to the postlude. The style was formal and I was happy
to notice that nobody applauded after the postlude. Bravo! Very
Anglican.
Exactly how long was the
sermon?
12 minutes.
On a scale of 1-10, how
good was the preacher?
8 A very interesting and loving style, both serious and
ironic, simultaneously theologically elevated and down to earth.
I am not a big fan of long sermons. If I liked them I would
have been a Baptist!
In a nutshell, what was
the sermon about?
It was a difficult topic, but Father Jonathan dealt beautifully
and in occasionally a funny way with the war in Syria, alternating
this with various other subjects and events. He also added several
other anecdotes both secular and theological.
Which part of the service
was like being in heaven?
I always say that when a service is well done, there is no "best
part", and this was indeed the case! If I must choose,
then the music (especially the traditional hymns and Anglican
chant for Psalm 139) and the liturgy were both very uplifting.
And which part was like
being in... er... the other place?
As every in church I have been to in this country during summertime,
the terribly hot temperature.
What happened when you
hung around after the service looking lost?
During the service, the Revd Dana English told us that there
were refreshments in the church garden. As we moved out of the
church, both members of the clergy greeted us.
How would you describe
the after-service coffee?
People were very warm and welcoming. I talked to many people,
including the vicar and the assistant curate. Cold drinks and
wine (yes, it's Italy) were served, as well as English cakes
and biscuits. Hot drinks, given the 90°F (29°C) temperature,
could wait.
How would you feel about
making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
10 Wonderful service, glorious music and liturgy. Great
people and clergy... who wouldn't join a church like this?
Did the service make you
feel glad to be a Christian?
Yes, of course, but more than that, this church made me feel
glad to be an Anglican!
What one thing will you
remember about all this in seven days' time?
The wonderful music and liturgy. And the lovely people and clergy. |
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The Mystery Pilgrim |
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One of our most seasoned reporters makes the Camino pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Read here. |
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London churches |
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Read reports from 70 London churches, visited by a small army of Mystery Worshippers on one single Sunday. Read here. |
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