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2484: St Onuphrius,
at the Museum of Civilization, Gatineau, Québec, Canada |
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Photo:
© Wladyslaw and used under license
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Mystery
Worshipper: Augustine the Aleut.
The church:
St
Onuphrius, at the Museum of Civilization, Gatineau, Québec,
Canada.
Denomination:
Ukrainian Catholic
Eparchy of Toronto and Eastern Canada.
The building:
The Museum of Civilization, Canada's national museum of history
and one of North America's oldest cultural institutions, undulates
along the north bank of the Ottawa River directly opposite the
Houses of Parliament. Within the museum has been reassembled
the Ukrainian Catholic Church of St Onuphrius, originally built
in Smoky Lake, Alberta, in 1907 and moved intact in 1996 as
a permanent exhibit complete with all of its ritual objects,
decor and furnishings. The church is used for occasional services
indeed, the divine liturgy had been held earlier that
morning. Today's service took place outdoors on a snowy field.
The church:
This is not a permanent church community, but most of those
attending today's service were either from the Ukrainian
Catholic Seminary of the Holy Spirit, the Metropolitan
Sheptytsky Institute at St Paul University, or local Ukrainian
Catholic parishes.
The neighbourhood:
Most of the Hull section of Gatineau had been destroyed in the
great fire of 1900, so most of the surrounding buildings date
from the Edwardian period. The grey stone Collège de Saint Joseph,
a Roman Catholic girls’ school, faces the museum. The museum
itself is but a few hundred metres from the former location
of the voyageurs’ church, at which mass had been said by St
Gabriel Lalemant, St Isaac Jogues, and St Jean de Brébeuf.
The cast:
I believe I recognized the Revd Michael Winn, rector of the
seminary. Father Stephen and Father Roman were mentioned by
name.
The date & time:
Feast of the Holy Theophany, Saturday, 19 January 2013, 12.30pm.
What was the name of the
service?
The Great Blessing of Waters.
How full was the building?
I suppose that you might fit about 400-500 in the open space.
I counted 30 men, 41 women, and 20 children, but as we were
all in a circle around the clergy, it seemed fine. The largest
single age group was in the 20s and 30s: seminarians with their
wives and batch of recent offspring. About five of those present
were likely Chinese or Filipino in origin, either children or
teenagers. Perhaps I heard about 15 speaking Ukrainian; the
others spoke English.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
I had come about five minutes late, as is not improper at events
of the Eastern churches. I received friendly nods from two of
the seminarians and a young woman managing a one-year old child
in her arms.
Was your pew comfortable?
Pew? Ha! I looked for a spot where I would not have to stand in the snow, as that gets uncomfortable after half an hour or so. I was able to move about to keep warm although it was perhaps unnecessary, as it was unseasonably warm at -5°C.
How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere?
As I was late, I could not say. Everyone was fairly relaxed,
but attentive to the service. Small children were well-behaved
and ambling about. Teenagers were huddled in their conspiratorial
clumps, all under the eyes of their parents.
What were the exact opening words of the
service?
I came as the rector was singing: "The voice of one crying
in the wilderness: Prepare ye the way of the Lord."
What books did the congregation use during the
service?
A 24-page booklet had been prepared for the event, with the
English, French, and Ukrainian texts pointed for chanting.
What musical instruments were played?
In the Byzantine manner, there was no instrumentation. The choir
of the local Ukrainian Catholic seminary led the music.
Did anything distract you?
I enjoyed looking beyond the choir and the young people holding the icons and banners, over the field and the ice-covered river to the gothic Parliament buildings on the other side of the river. I liked seeing the children and teenagers quite at home during a long service, without being turned into zombies.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip,
happy clappy, or what?
The service was complex but relaxed, perhaps the result of much
practice and rehearsal. The clergy appeared zoned out, but didn't
miss a beat. The young women holding the icons by the ice cross
looked as if they did this every day. The seminarians knocked
the snow from the hems of their cassocks. A gaggle of a half-dozen
pre-schoolers of different colours and origins stood by the
choir and joined in the chanting. A similar service from three
years ago can be found on YouTube.
Exactly how long was the
sermon?
No sermon this year. A ten minute discourse in a previous year
at -25°C had apparently caused a rebellion!
Which part of the service
was like being in heaven?
The Kievan chant of the ending troparion of the feast wafting
over the field toward the river and over the ice to Ottawa.
A dozen or so onlookers and museum staff stopped to listen,
perhaps puzzled, but certainly transfixed.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
Feeling like an outsider, which sometimes happens in Eastern
Christian churches I have visited, where everyone knows everyone
else. I did not feel any ethnic exclusion, however.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
We were funneled back into the museum’s lower floor into an
entranceway, where we were blessed and given a chunk of antidoron
(blessed but unconsecrated bread). We were also provided with
bottles for the blessed water from the service, as the custom
is to take it home and sprinkle it about one’s icon corner.
How would you describe the after-service
coffee?
Everyone toddled into a reception room by the museum’s great
hall, where mulled cider and coffee was available. My cider
was quite agreeable. I stood at one of the tables and made brief
conversation with a Latin-rite acquaintance who was bemused
at the sight of the cassocked seminarians playing with their
children.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
9 This is a special service, held once a year, but I
make an effort to attend.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian?
Yes, for two reasons: Outdoor services have a certain magic,
and for me it is doubled in wintertime. It was also magical
to see how the Ukrainians had been able to bring their practices
to Canada with them, and had fashioned a Christianity that reflects
both societies.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
The pre-schoolers joining in the chanting. |
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