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| 2057: Iglesia
del Sagrario, Granada, Spain |
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Mystery Worshipper:
Chris Teean.
The church:
Iglesia del Sagrario (Church of the Tabernacle), Granada, Spain.
Denomination: Roman Catholic, Archdiocese of Granada.
The building:
The Iglesia del Sagrario, together with the royal chapel that
houses the tombs of the Catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella,
is part of the great Renaissance cathedral complex; each has
a separate entrance. The cathedral, Santa Maria de la Encarnacion,
rises above the maze of houses in the city centre. The exterior
of the Iglesia del Sagrario is rather austere, typical of church
buildings in this area that were built like fortresses to withstand
attacks from Moorish forces. Statues of St Peter, flanked by
St John Nepomuceno and St Ivo, are mounted above the entrance.
The interior is dazzling in its beauty. Built in the Baroque
style, it is modelled on the Basilica of St Peter. The ornate
altar of marble and polished wood, festooned with flowers, features
various religious figures. A pair of what looks like giant thuribles
hangs on either side of the chancel. On closer inspection, one
sees that they are actually very grand looking candle holders
suspended on long chains! A hemispherical dome covers the chancel
and immense columns decorated with large statues of angels support
a larger dome above the nave. Small chapels, monuments and some
confessional boxes line the sides and the back of the church.
The church:
A sole notice in the porch listed masses on Sundays and saints’
days. A daily mass was scheduled at 9.30am so it appeared the
one and only service of the day had already taken place.
The neighbourhood:
Granada is an ancient and fascinating city in southern Spain.
Once part of a Moorish kingdom, it was conquered by Christian
forces in the 15th century, resulting in the unification of
Spain under its monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella. It lies under
the lofty Sierra Nevada mountains, which are snow-capped throughout
the year, and it is dominated by the Alhambra, a fabulous Moorish
palace. Narrow streets and alleyways containing shops, cafes
and restaurants of all description surround the cathedral; indeed,
the neighbouring Alcaiceria area has the atmosphere of an Arabian
souk. At the rear of the cathedral is the Plaza Isabel la Catolica,
where there is a monument commemorating the moment Christopher
Columbus presented his exploration plans to the queen before
he subsequently set sail on the voyage that was to land him
in the New World.
The cast: An elderly priest was the sole celebrant, but I was unable to discover his name.
The date & time:
Wednesday, 25 August 2010, 11.00am.
What was the name of the service?
Misa (Mass).
How full was the building?
When I entered, there were around 20 people sitting in pews
and about the same number milling around and taking photographs
at the back of the church. The congregation swelled to about
30 and diminished to about one-fifth of that during the service.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
No.
Was your pew comfortable?
It was a standard wooden pew that was comfortable enough, but
the wooden kneeler looked decidedly uncomfortable.
How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere?
By pure chance, unexpectedly, and literally within seconds of
my walking through the doors, a priest entered and the service
began! The only atmosphere I encountered before the service
was dodging the beggars sitting on the steps outside in the
roasting heat.
What were the exact opening words of the
service?
In nomine Patris, et Filii, et Spiritus Sancti.
What books did the congregation use during the
service?
None. They knew all the responses off by heart.
What musical instruments were played?
None.
Did anything distract you?
I was absolutely amazed at the comings and goings of the congregation. I think you would be able to count on one hand the ones who stayed for the whole service.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or
what?
Definitely not happy clappy! The celebrant was vested in a cream
chasuble and he presided at a perfunctory and efficient mass.
Using a microphone, he projected his voice clearly, speaking
mostly in Spanish with some parts in Latin. Although he crossed
himself and genuflected at appropriate times, there was no other
ceremony. I couldn’t hear any bells being rung at the elevation
of the host. I got the impression the priest was saying his
mass, come what may, irrespective of whoever was there. At the
peace he stayed at the altar whilst the congregation greeted
each other.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
No sermon.
Which part of the service
was like being in heaven?
The truly stupendous beauty of the church.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
The awful comings and goings of the tourists, accentuated by
the painful squeaking of the doors. You could also hear the
strumming of guitars emanating from the surrounding streets.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
Seven people (including myself) remained at the end. The priest disappeared through a side door and the congregation exited quickly.
How would you describe the after-service
coffee?
I decided to purchase a bottle of water before returning to take some photos. When I returned, only a few minutes later, the doors were closed and the wrought iron gates were locked with a chain and padlock! Even the beggars had departed. I just couldn’t believe my eyes!
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
1 – I do not think that would be practical!
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian?
The beauty of the church certainly made you feel the presence
of God. However, the speed of closing the church and locking
it up left me feeling very disappointed.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
Standing outside the locked church, wishing I could have been able to take in more detail. |
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| The Mystery Pilgrim |
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| One of our most seasoned reporters makes the Camino pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Read here. |
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