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1949: Carlisle
Cathedral, Carlisle, Cumbria, England |
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Mystery Worshipper:
Chris Teean.
The church:
Cathedral
Church of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, Carlisle, Cumbria,
England.
Denomination:
Church of England, Diocese
of Carlisle.
The building:
Begun in 1123 as an Augustinian priory, the church was elevated
to the status of cathedral in 1133. Renovation and rebuilding
took place over the ages, but during the English Civil War (1641–1651)
most of the nave was demolished and its stone used to fortify
Carlisle Castle. As a result, apart from some 12th century ruins
in the grounds, the cathedral today at first glance has more
of a look of a substantial parish church about it. Upon closer
inspection, though, one cannot doubt that one is standing inside
a cathedral of considerable beauty. From the stunning blue vaulted
ceiling with gold stars through which peeks a tiny face thought
to be that of Mary, to the side chapels, to the organ case,
to the carved misericords scorched by candles perhaps dropped
by sleepy-eyed monks, to the high altar beneath a spectacular
baldacchino, to the magnificent east window it's all
wonderful! I'm afraid your Mystery Worshipper simply can't do
it justice in the space allowed.
The church:
Comprehensive details of the cathedral’s services, the three
choirs, and a timetable of concerts are detailed on the website.
The neighbourhood:
Carlisle is a northern city of England, close to the Scottish
border, and is the gateway to the western stretch of the ancient
Roman ruin known as Hadrian’s Wall. It has been dominated by
Romans, Celts, Saxons and Vikings, as well as surviving skirmishes
with the Scots during its turbulent history! Prominent landmarks
are the castle, which has been a constantly updated working
fortress until recent times, and the cathedral. Now Carlisle
is a small bustling modern city with predominantly pedestrianised
shopping areas.
The cast: The Revd Barry Etherington, a retired priest, was the celebrant. The organ was played by the resident cathedral organist, Mr Jeremy Suter.
The date & time:
Friday, 5 March 2010, 12.30pm.
What was the name of the service?
Eucharist. This was a special service in Lent of eucharist with
organ accompaniment.
How full was the building?
There were 12 of us in the congregation.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
We were greeted by a pleasant lady who directed us to the quire and gave us a service booklet.
Was your pew comfortable?
Yes, it was a comfortable chair.
How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere?
Very quiet and meditative. Just before the service began, the
organist played Miserere by William Byrd.
What were the exact opening words of the
service?
"Good Morning. Welcome to our Friday Lent Service. Praise,
mercy and peace from God the Father and the Lord Jesus Christ
be with you."
What books did the congregation use during the
service?
A service booklet entitled The Eucharist in the Seasons
of Lent and Advent.
What musical instruments
were played?
Pipe organ, a magnificent opus dating from 1856 by the venerable
old firm of Henry Willis & Sons Ltd. It was rebuilt in 1902
by Harrison & Harrison Ltd. A major redesign was completed
in 1962 by J W Walker & Sons, and the organ was completely
refurbished in 1997 by the Liverpool firm of David Wells Organ
Builders Ltd.
Did anything distract
you?
The service was taking place in the quire, and although there must have been restricted access to the rest of the cathedral during this service, a toddler managed to run backwards and forwards across the high altar.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or
what?
Very dignified and reverential. A simple table supporting a
brass cross and two candles had been placed between the choir
stalls. A black robed verger led the entrance procession, brought
up by the priest vested in a purple chasuble. Although the priest
crossed himself at appropriate times, there was no genuflection,
so I thought it was very middle of the road.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
There was no sermon.
Which part of the service
was like being in heaven?
The immense feeling of spirituality in that wonderful setting.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
I don’t think I was anywhere near the other place, but I remember a sense of irritation when it came to reciting the Lord’s Prayer. I had just recited the second line when I realised others were reading the awful modern version, and by the time I found it in the service booklet, it was half over.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
Ethereal music wafted down from the organ; it was Fantasia
in C minor by JS Bach. Most people had departed, so we
had a pleasant chat with the priest, who told us he was retired.
How would you describe the after-service
coffee?
There was nothing provided here and we didn’t really expect
it. We went to the Prior’s Kitchen, a restaurant in the vaulted
undercroft of the medieval fratry, where we enjoyed a bowl of
soup.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
10 You would have a hard job keeping me away if I lived in Carlisle!
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian?
Very much so.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
I have visited many cathedrals that are grand or awe inspiring,
but the beauty of this small cathedral really took my breath
away, and I shall remember it for a long time. |
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The Mystery Pilgrim |
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One of our most seasoned reporters makes the Camino pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Read here. |
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Read reports from 70 London churches, visited by a small army of Mystery Worshippers on one single Sunday. Read here. |
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