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| 1534: Sint-Janskathedraal, 's-Hertogenbosch, The Netherlands |
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Mystery Worshipper:
Churchdoc.
The church:
Sint-Janskathedraal
(Cathedral of St John the Evangelist), 's-Hertogenbosch, The Netherlands.
Denomination:
Roman Catholic, Diocese
of Den Bosch.
The building:
St John’s Cathedral is a so-called Kanjermonument
("whopper-monument" in Dutch) and so receives financial
support from the Dutch government. It is a stunning 115 meter
long Gothic masterpiece that grew out of renovations to the
original Romanesque church dating from about 1220. The cathedral
was finished around 1525 and features both a clock tower and
a carillon. The carillon, recently restored, is regarded as
one of the most beautiful and playable instruments of its kind.
Almost every arc and rim of the exterior is occupied by sculptures
ranging from saints to gargoyles. Sadly,
the building's outer fabric has been badly damaged by the effects
of years of acid rain but is in the process of being restored.
Inside, the floor plan is a clear Latin cross. The intersection
of the rib-vaulted nave and transept is topped with a 60m high
dome, almost as high as the clock tower. There is a magnificent
altarpiece and some remarkable stained glass, including a window
dedicated in 2007 representing heaven and hell in about 20 different
panes, one of which depicts an airplane about to crash into
New York's World Trade Centre.
The church:
A vibrant, active parish congregation makes the cathedral its
home.
The neighbourhood:
The city of ‘s-Hertogenbosch, or Den Bosch as it is called
by the locals, was founded in 1185 and literally means "the
duke’s forest" – a reference to the medieval
castle and woodland that dominated this quaint little town back
then. Today the city retains much of its original layout, with
narrow alleys, old canals and perfectly preserved buildings
lending a charming Old World feel to the place. Den Bosch was
the birthplace of Heronimus Bosch, whose paintings full of monsters,
humans in wildly imaginative poses, and mysterious symbolism
enthrall the art world even today. The area around the cathedral
has many old houses and small streets lined with shops, restaurants
and bars.
The cast:
The Revd Monsignor Antonius Lambertus Maria Hurkmans, Bishop
of Den Bosch; the Revd Geert Jan van Rossem, dean of the cathedral;
and another priest whose name I could not ascertain.
The date & time:
Easter Sunday, 23 March 2008, 10.30am.
What was the name of the service?
Solemn High Mass.
How full was the building?
Full, with many people standing.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
No.
Was your pew comfortable?
Yes.
How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere?
The organist played an impressive work by Langlais with a "Lumen
Christi" theme in it, thereby connecting the Easter Vigil
mass to this celebration.
What were the exact opening words of the
service?
"In nomine Patris, et Filii, et Spiritus Sancti. Amen."
What books did the congregation use during the
service?
A specially designed booklet made for Easter Sunday.
What musical instruments were played?
Both choir organ and great organ.
Did anything distract you?
The bishop walked as though his back was causing him a great
deal of pain. Someone told me that he had had surgery some weeks
before.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or
what?
As stiff as upper lips get. Very solemn – crowds of servers,
acolytes, lectors, sacred ministers. Plenty of incense. A sung
gospel. And so on.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
10 minutes.
On a scale of 1-10, how good was the preacher?
8 – A remarkably clear, fresh and honest sermon by the
bishop. I was so startled by his message that I blinked! It
gave me an understanding of the real meaning of Easter.
In a nutshell, what was the sermon
about?
The true resurrection of Christ takes place in the heart of
each and every one of us. Christ becomes new through us and
through all people who understand this sacred truth.
Which part of the service was like being in
heaven?
The Agnus Dei of the Palestrina mass setting, sung
by the cathedral choir in a very serene and clear way. The simple
beauty of Palestrina's polyphony was amplified by the breathtaking
interior of the cathedral in combination with the silent atmosphere
just before communion.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
One of the many children – a three year old boy –
escaped from his mom and managed to run back and forth in front
of the high altar. He seemed to take delight in emitting a stream
of high, short screams of joy and letting the cathedral's wonderful
acoustics echo them back. At length mom managed to recapture
the little defendant, but not without a final round of shrieks
of protest.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
Nothing. Apparently it is typical for Roman Catholics to enter
and depart church in complete anonymity. Everyone appeared to
be heading for the 25 or so bars and brasseries just outside
the church, and so did we.
How would you describe the after-service
coffee?
Cigars, sherry, and that delightful Den Bosch pastry known as
Bosse Bollen, a cream-filled souffle dressed in chocolate
and attacked with a fork – the ultimate excuse to eat as much
as you can!
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
9 – The church was magnificent and the liturgy simply beautiful.
I only regret that no welcoming committee was on hand to introduce
one to the splendour of the building.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian?
Very much so.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
The bishop's message that Christ's resurrection takes place
within us so that he becomes new in us, and we in him. |
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| The Mystery Pilgrim |
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| One of our most seasoned reporters makes the Camino pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Read here. |
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