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1428: St Stephen Walbrook, London
Mystery Worshipper: Bishop of Stortford.
The church: St Stephen Walbrook, London.
Denomination: Church of England.
The building: A magnificent Wren church which has been described
as one of the 10 most important buildings in England. The church is so
closely surrounded by other buildings that you don't realise its size until
you enter. In fact, it looks a little rough from the outside, but the inside,
basically square with a central dome, is rich with memorials and beautifully
decorated. The altar, by Henry Moore, is a colossal piece of stone, about a metre high and
more than two metres deep, sitting directly below the dome. It is surrounded by curved
pews on four sides.
The church: This is not primarily a residential area (although some
people do make their home in the City of London) and so there are no parishioners
per se. The congregation is drawn from office workers on their
lunch breaks. For this reason there is no Sunday service the main weekly
service is at 12.45pm on Thursdays. The church's patrons are the Worshipful
Company of Grocers, one of the City of London's livery companies (guilds)
that dates from 1180. St Stephen's has recently set up as the Internet Church for London, with daily night prayer services available as online video. The church was also the birthplace of Samaritans,
launched in 1953 by the Revd Chad Varah, Rector of St Stephens up until
his retirement in 2003. Varah had long felt the need for a counselling service
that people in distress could turn to. After officiating at the funeral
of a 14 year old girl who had committed suicide (having begun her periods but not understanding
what was happening to her body and having no one to turn to for advice),
Varah knew that the time had come to take action.
And so the church's telephone number, MAN-9000, became the first
(and probably still the best known) telephone helpline in the United Kingdom.
A glass case in the church houses the telephone on which Samaritans
received its first call for help on 2 November 1953.
The neighbourhood: The church is located in the heart of the City
of London, the main financial district of the United Kingdom, just round
the corner from the Stock Exchange. This is the historic core from which,
along with the City of Westminster, modern day London grew.
The cast: St Stephen's priest in charge is the Ven. Peter Delaney,
Archdeacon of London. Unfortunately Archdeacon Delaney was not available
on the day I visited, and I did not manage to find the name of the priest
who conducted the service.
The date & time: 10 May 2007, 12.45pm.
What was the name of the service?
Choral Eucharist (1928 Prayer Book).
How full was the building?
There were 10 people in the congregation and four in the choir. I think
there was a warden or two lurking in the background somewhere, as someone
had brewed fresh tea for the end of the service.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
No. There was no sign to say that there was a service today (although a
sign advertised Friday's organ recital) and no attempt was made to greet
me as I entered. I had to ask someone if there was a service.
Was your pew comfortable?
No, not really. They were modern pews, but were still just solid wooden
benches. The kneelers were very comfortable, however, in spite of the fact
that they were very thin.
How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere?
Very quiet inside the church no one spoke to anyone. Outside there were
roadworks in progress, so the sound of that was audible.
What were the exact opening words of the
service?
The service opened with the collect for purity: "Almighty God, to whom
all hearts be open, all desires known and from whom no secrets are hidÂ…"
What books did the congregation use during the
service?
New English Hymnal full music edition; home-produced service
booklet taken from the 1928 Book of Common Prayer. Full copies
of the 1928 Prayer Book were also available. Readings were from the King
James Bible.
What musical instruments were played?
None. The choir sang a cappella. The congregation sang only one
hymn, which was accompanied by the choir.
Did anything distract you?
The constant noise from the roadworks outside was intrusive and very distracting.
The acoustics of the building, with the high dome above the priest's head,
made it difficult to hear even without that intrusion.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or
what?
Very much stiff upper lip, old style Church of England. The 1928 Prayer
Book is very similar to the 1662, so the language was quaint and the tone
was very much in keeping. The priest rattled through the service in double-quick
time, stopping only to allow the choir to show off their very considerable
skills.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
There was no sermon.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven?
I'd have to say the choir. There were only four of them, but they were accomplished
musicians and the sound they created was quite incredible. The acoustics
of the building are perfect for choral singing. The priest did tell us what
the setting was, but I forget now.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
The lack of welcome before the service. I felt I had to impose myself on
them, rather than being welcomed.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
I was quickly engaged in conversation by one of the regulars. He was very
well spoken and knowledgeable, and we discussed things you would expect
to discuss in the City, such as the resignation of BP's chief executive
and the takeover of Reuters.
How would you describe the after-service
coffee?
Biscuits and freshly brewed tea from a pot. It could have been ever-so-civilised,
except that the milk was in a plastic bottle, the biscuits straight from
the packet, and the cups were disposable.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
5 I might actually go regularly as I'll be working in the City for a few months.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian?
Oh yes. Eucharistic worship always makes me feel that way.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
The sheer size of that lump of stone they use for an altar. It really has to be seen to be believed.
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