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1249: Westminster Abbey, London, England  NOTE: This is not a genuine Mystery Worshipper report. Read the story of the deception behind this report in The Mystery Bullshipper. Mystery Worshipper: Freddie. The church: Westminster Abbey, London, England. Denomination: Church of England. The building: One of the world's best known buildings, Westminster Abbey was built in the 11th century and has been added to ever since. It contains the tombs of many English kings and queens as well as the shrine of St Edward the Confessor, who founded the Abbey. All coronations of British monarchs take place here. The famous twin towers weren't built until the 18th century. The interior is richly furnished and contains hundreds of staues and monuments to famous people throughout British history. The choir stalls (in which evensong was sung) were installed in the 19th century by Edward Blore. The church: I wonder if there is a community here. It is, I believe, the most visited building in England and I suppose almost all of the worshippers here are tourists. That being said, I appreciate the fact that the Abbey remains a place of worship rather than a museum (which it could easily become) and that evensong as well as other services are said or sung daily. The neighbourhood: Everywhere one looks one is surrounded by hisotry. The Abbey is next to the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben as part of Parliament Square. There are tourists, politicians, clergy and ordinary workers rushing around constantly. It is a breathless neighbourhood. I can't imagine what it must be like to live here. The cast: There were two clerics, both dressed in the classical Anglican garb of surplice, scarf and hood. One, a woman, was one of the canons. She introduced the service and read a lesson. I later discovered (see below) that the officiant was a priest vicar of Westminster Abbey. There were no names given out or any service sheet with their names on. However, a simple bit of detective work revealed that the only woman on the Abbey clergy staff is Canon Jane Hedges. The priest vicar remained anonymous, despite my best efforts. The date & time: Tuesday 21st March 2006 at 5.00pm. What was the name of the service? Choral Evensong. How full was the building? The nave was filled up with chairs and clutter for a concert that evening, so nobody was sitting there. The choir stalls were full and the chairs going up towards the chancel steps were respectably filled. Pretty good for a Tuesday evening, although I reckon at least 90 per cent of the congregation were tourists or visitors like me. Not surprising, I suppose. Did anyone welcome you personally? It's a bit of an effort to get into one's seat! A black-coated doorman at the front gate barred my way and asked if I was going to the service. On my affirmative, he stepped aside and smiled slightly. Then as I walked in, a red-gowned man, whom I later found out was called a marshal, asked me the same question and then directed me towards the way into the choir. I walked down a side aisle, outside the choir, until I was met by a verger who smiled, wished me "good evening" and led me to a place in the choir stalls. He was easily the friendliest of the lot. The man next to me nodded vaguely as I sat down beside him but that was that. Was your pew comfortable? It was a wonderful stall with a very comfortable cushion. The stall was so deep that when I sat down my head could barely be seen above the bookrest in front. There was also a large and comfortable kneeler. It was the most luxurious chair I have ever had in a church! The disadvantage was that I had to stick my head around it in order to look up the Abbey towards the high altar. How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere? Quiet and reverential. The organ played quietly and a few people spoke in whispers to their companions, occasionally pointing out architecural features. At one point, a man was led into a stall on the opposite side of the choir to me who turned out to be the High Commissioner of Namibia. He caused a bit of a stir as he had obviously brought some of his staff with him, and they all stood up as he came in and started to talk. All in all, though, it was prayerful and good. What were the exact opening words of the service? The choir and clergy had processed in solemnly and the choir sang a pleasant introit by Bancroft. The exact opening words said were: "Welcome to Westminster Abbey." This came from Canon Hedges who told us about the presence of the High Commissioner from Namibia (it was their National Day and apparently all the Commonwealth countries come to the Abbey on their Independence Days). Then the priest vicar led us in a penitential rite. What books did the congregation use during the service? There were no hymnbooks, but there was a printed order of service for everybody, as well as a psalter to follow the psalms. The psalter was that from the 1662 Book of Common Prayer. What musical instruments were played? The organ played and the choir of men and boys sang beautifully. They sang the psalms with great feeling and followed that with a good set of canticles and an anthem by Byrd. It was clear that most of the congregation had never heard anything like it and were openmouthed in admiration, especially of the boys. It was cathedral music from the very top drawer. Did anything distract you? The architecture of the Abbey is wonderful and certainly distracts the mind! In addition, the high altar had the largest piece of Lent array I have ever seen, with wonderfully worked emblems of the passion on it. I was a bit distracted by the voice of the priest vicar; his singing voice was so wonderful one wanted to turn around and peer down at him in the way that one always looks at singers doing a solo. Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Stiff upper lip choral Anglicanism at its best. Wonderful singing, beautiful language, dignified ceremonial. Perhaps "high and dry" sums it up best. I liked it very much and it showed that when done well, classical Anglicanism can be attractive and living. It was a good illustration of what a cathedral (or in this case, collegiate church) can do. Exactly how long was the sermon? There was no sermon. Which part of the service was like being in heaven? The singing for certain, both from the choir and the officiant. Looking up to the roof, way above one's head. The feeling that prayers had been ascending from this place for over a thousand years. And which part was like being in... er... the other place? This is my fault, but I disliked having to fight my way through the High Commissioner's accent and reading style during the lesson. He shouted the words rather and, at the very end, called out, "I thank you!" rather like a bad club comedian. I didn't like the Checkpoint Charlie style of entering the Abbey. I know they have so many tourists, but it wasn't until I reached the choir and was greeted by the verger that I felt at all at ease and properly welcome. Also, a man a few seats in front of me made it clear he didn't approve of a woman canon. He didn't stand up until the priest vicar began to speak, and then made it obvious that he wasn't listening to her during the first lesson by rustling through his psalter. I have sympathy with those opposed to the ordination of women, but he made himself look silly. What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost? After the choir and clergy and High Commissioner processed out, we all hung around a little in our stalls. Then the vergers came around and directed us out towards a side door rather than the way we came in. I think this was because of the concert. As if by magic, the clergy had come around to this door and were greeting people as they left, rather in the way of cabin crew at the end of a flight. I hung around a little on my own, but it became clear that everybody was either on their own or with their friends and that one went to the clergy to speak and not vice versa. Eventually I went up to Canon Hedges and introduced myself. She was friendly and smiled a lot and hoped that I would be back next time I was in London. I then went to the officiant and congratulated him on his lovely singing voice and the way he took the service. He looked suitably pink and embarrassed. After a little conversation he told me he was in fact a priest vicar of the Abbey and he came in every so often to sing evensong. Although I gave him every opportunity, he didn't give me his name. Later, it struck me that perhaps he thought I was trying to pick him up! Then I followed out the last few members of the congregation into the dark and cold of Westminster. How would you describe the after-service coffee? There were no refreshments available. I don't know if it is different on a Sunday morning. How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 7 – I don't live in London so can't go here more regularly. It must be odd to have so many tourists going through the place. I wonder if there is any sort of Abbey congregation in the way there seems to be in more provincial cathedrals? Perhaps one weekend I shall try it on a Sunday morning. For wonderful music and dignified Anglican liturgy, I think it must take some beating. Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Oh of course. And afterwards I beat myself up about my problems with the accent of the High Commissioner. How wonderful it was to worship with Christians from all over the world and how silly of me to be irritated by another Christian's voice. What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? The beautiful music and the Lent array. |
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